With my second mash timer set at 60 minutes and the temperature at 157 degrees, it was time now to see how the second mash would affect the wort. After checking to make sure my temperature was still correct, I placed the basket back into the wort and proceeded to add the grains for the second mash. This process went smoothly however, I did have a little trouble getting the mash all out of the bottom of the grain basket. I then took the grains out of the basket by scooping them into a five-gallon bucket I had next to my Grainfather and left the mash basket in the sparging position. The whole sparge took about 40 minutes to reach the necessary volume for the second mash. Doing so ensures that I may not heat the water passed the temp I wanted to mash. With the sparge water at 157 degrees, same as the mash temperature. About 15 minutes into the first mash, I took my first PH sample and it was about 5.2 (no acid addition) which is right on track for what for the recipe requires. Once the temperature was reached, I added in the grains and started my first mash timer for 60 minutes. I added my distilled water with additions to the correct level and then started heating to 157 degrees. When I began, it seemed to be not any different than any other brew day. Then, I put both bags on my scale and adjusted them slightly to make both perfectly even. For the grains, I used two separate bags and split both in half. I then made up new sparge water using the water additions to keep the water profile the same. To keep it simple, I did not use all of the first batch of water but, instead, dumped what was left of the first batch. I recorded this process so that I may be able to replicate this experiment again.ĭown into what you would add into your mash and sparge water, it will look likeįor my process, I ended up making two batches of sparge water. For the mash, I am looking for a water volume ofĥ.35 gallons and a sparge of 2.74 gallons.įor the recipe, I used distilled water and a stout water profile that I had on BeerSmith. Referenced another recipe through BeerSmith. This batch calls for 25.5lbs of grains, I split the grain bill in half as I I only needed half of my grain for this batch, which is more manageable. When figuring my mash and sparge water, I learned This will give you the efficiency of the brew. When you get to the session part of the recipe on BeerSmith, you can then put in the gravity and total volume of water for the pre-boil and post-boil. It will still allow you to have an idea of how much will be converted to sugar for your gravity, color and IBU’s. Therefore, you will not be able to use this recipe to set up on brew day, but it will be beneficial to have on hand throughout the brew. However, with BeerSmith knowing all the grains will not fit in your current brewing vessel, just plugging in 25.5lbs of a grain’s recipe will throw the needed sparge and mash water all off.
Grainfather mash profile beersmith software#
This software will also calculate out how much water you need for the mash as well as how much sparge water to reach the desired pre-boil volume.
Using BeerSmith, a software where you can input your recipe, it will tell you all the info that you need as well as what your starting gravity, IBU’s, color, and if it is in style. In doing so, you create wort from your first running’s and then use it as your strike water for your second mash. My first step was to utilize a process called a reiterated mash. The first challenge I faced was, “How am I going to go about this? What technique should I use when brewing this big of a beer?” For those who have a smaller brewing vessel and only brew five gallons at a time, the necessary grains needed to achieve the desired gravity could cause some issues when you begin planning out your brew. The purpose of this brew was to see how far I can push my system, what my efficiency will be, how it will affect the wort and the end result taste. However, I worry the beer will then be too dry and not have that desired rich, deep, maltiness, and complexity from the roasted grain. It is known that you can add sugar until the desired gravity is met. It has always been a goal of mine to brew some 10 – 13% beer with my current system, and it came with some challenges. The most I ever put in a mash was about 17lbs which fills upright to the holes for the handle, which is used to lift the grain basket out of the boil kettle. With my current system being a Grainfather all in one system, it limits me to the amount of grains I can use for a single mash, so a high gravity beer was out of the question for me. I am not always one to drink a lot of big beers but there is always a time and place for them.
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